API Freshwater Master Test Kit : How To Use with Information & Tips
#ApiFreshwaterMasterTestKit #IndianBlueFrog
This Video is about how to use the API Freshwater Master Test Kit with some additional information about the tests and some tips.
Quick Link:
1:03 Test #1- pH Test
1:51 Test #2- High Range pH Test
2:43 Test #3- Ammonia Test
3:52 Test #4- Nitrite Test
4:43 Test #5- Nitrate Test
Some (Not All) of the Information appearing in the video is mentioned below:
Why Test pH?
pH is the measure of acidity of water. A pH reading of 7.0 is neutral. A pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline, and a pH lower than 7.0 is acidic. Maintaining the aquarium at the proper pH ensures optimal water quality. The pH should be tested weekly, since natural materials in the aquarium (such as fish waste and uneaten food) can cause pH changes.
Recommended pH Levels:
A pH of 7.0 is ideal when keeping a community aquarium containing a variety of tropical fish. Goldfish and livebearers prefer a pH of 7.5.
Many Amazonian fish, like angelfish and neon tetras, prefer a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. Mollies and swordtails thrive at pH 7.2 to 7.5. The hardscapes in your aquarium such as rocks, stones, gravel, etc. may interact with the water and change it’s pH if it isn’t pH neutral. You should check the preferred pH for your fish online. Many fish species can adapt to different pH level as well if the change is slow and gradual. A pH of 7.5 is ideal for most live-bearing fish, such as mollies & swordtails. Goldfish will also thrive at a pH of 7.5. African cichlids prefer a pH of 8.2. Marine fish & invertebrates require a pH between 8.2 – 8.4.
Ammonia:
Fish continually release ammonia (NH3) directly into the aquarium/pond through their gills, urine, and solid waste. Uneaten food and other decaying organic matter also add ammonia to the water. A natural mechanism exists that controls ammonia in the aquarium/pond – the biological filter. However, as with any natural process, imbalances can occur. So, testing for the presence of toxic ammonia is essential. Ammonia in the aquarium/pond may damage gill membranes, and prevent fish from carrying on normal respiration. High levels of ammonia quickly lead to fish death. Even trace amounts stress fish, suppressing their immune system and increasing the likelihood of disease.
Why Test For Ammonia?
Fish continually release ammonia (NH3) directly into the aquarium/pond through their gills, urine, and solid waste. Uneaten food and other decaying organic matter also add ammonia to the water. A natural mechanism exists that controls ammonia in the aquarium/pond – the biological filter. However, as with any natural process, imbalances can occur.
Reducing Ammonia Levels:
In a new aquarium or pond the ammonia level may rise and then fall rapidly as the biological filter becomes established. The ammonia will be converted to nitrite (also toxic), then to nitrate. This process may take several weeks. In an established aquarium, the ammonia level should always remain at O ppm (mg/L); any level above O can harm fish. To reduce risk of fish loss, if ammonia levels continue to test high in your aquarium or pond (4 ppm or mg/L), perform a water change of 25% or more.
Reducing Aquarium Nitrite Levels:
Beneficial bacteria are responsible for breaking down Ammonia into Nitrite. Ensure the aquarium has enough surface area for the beneficial bacteria to reside in. Adding stones, gravel or a sponge filter helps in increasing the surface area inside an aquarium. Make partial water changes to reduce nitrite, especially if the initial level is very high. You can also seed cycled media from an established tank to speed up the process of bacteria colonization. Ensure your aquarium has adequate biological filtration to maintain optimum Ammonia and Nitrite levels.
Reducing Nitrate Levels:
Nitrates are a food source for plants and are essential for plants. Plants will sometimes switch to Nitrite consumption in the absence of Nitrates. Adding live plants to your aquarium is a great way for reducing nitrates. Making partial water changes is the only other natural/ non chemical way to reduce nitrate, especially if the level is very high. However, because many tap water supplies contain nitrate, it can be difficult to lower nitrate levels by this method. Make sure to check the Nitrate levels of your water supply to rule it out as the cause of high nitrates. It is debatable to ascertain what level of nitrate is considered high for fishes however it’s best practice to keep it as low as possible. A level of 40 ppm or lower is desirable.
Other Tips:
Drain the tubes, rinse with clean water, dry & store it in the container for future use.
Use the aquarium water you frain to water your plants & garden as they are very healthy for your plants.
The tubes should be viewed in a well-lit area against the white area of the chart. The closest match indicates the test result of the water sample.
Thanks for watching!!
Please Like the Video & Subscribe to the Channel if you find the content useful.
Original Source Link
